It's Time for Real Food

Drumroll please......

The little one is ready for rice cereal!

Problem: Which box says "rice cereal?"

After three trips to the grocery store, several consultations with the German-English dictionary, and much contemplation....

We found a winner!

(*Please note that the oh so lovely dress and matching shoes were handmade especially for Penelope by her Aunt J. Take a peek at her other cute baby items at http://stitchesofbliss.blogspot.com/ .)

Now it's time to take a bite....

Although a bit hesitant at first...

She was soon eagerly diving in...

until she had had her fill.

Hausfrau

Being a Hausfrau is only slightly more exciting than being a Housewife.

Blind Leading the Blind

The first day we rode the bus in Marburg I was surprised to see a blind man on the bus with us. I was fascinated by how expertly he got on the bus, found a seat, and knew when to get off. I couldn’t take my eyes off of him. The next day I once again found a blind person—this time a woman—on the same bus. The following day I was walking down the street in the center of town and passed two blind men talking to each other about what flavor of ice cream to buy. Whoa! How crazy is that? Blind people are everywhere here! Since that first week I have since learned that there is a blind community living here in Marburg. (And here I was beginning to believe it was something in the water.)

I have never personally known a blind person, and have only encountered a handful in my lifetime, so perhaps it is my lack of experience with the blind community that causes me to be so interested in, and even slightly scared of, them. I say “scared” because I find myself afraid that, when passing them in the street, I might throw them off track by getting in their way or that I might accidentally send out the wrong ‘sound signals’ and confuse them. I know, I’m crazy like that.

Well it just so happened that my first successful German conversation took place with a blind woman at the bus stop last week. I was waiting at the bus stop (I seem to do a lot of that) and rocking Penelope’s stroller back and forth so that she would stay asleep. A young blind woman walked up to the bus stop, sat down on the bench, and placed her walking stick between her knees. We waited. And we waited. In silence.

Then, a large truck drove up and came to a halt in front of us as a minor traffic jam had just built up. The woman quickly stood up at the first sound of the vehicle and then turned to me and said (in German!), “Is that the bus?”

Such a simple question, but for a non-German speaker, any utterance is difficult to comprehend. Two thoughts ran through my head: “Wow! I think I understood what she just said!”(Don’t be too impressed. They’re pretty much all English cognates.) And, “If I’m wrong, then I will be personally responsible for any harm that comes to this blind person.”

Well, I went with my instincts and replied “Nein.” Then I hoped she wouldn’t ask me something else. She did. Two minutes later an actual bus pulled up, and she asked me something to the effect of “What number bus is that?” Ummm…still working on how to count to ten. Thankfully, a real German girl had joined us at the bus stop, and she quickly responded “383.” So the blind woman got on the bus. And I let out a sigh of relief.

Penelope's Present Preoccupations

Lately, Penelope has been fascinated with two things: a rubber ducky and the curtains in our dormitory apartment.

When presented with an array of her toys, Penelope’s eyes are immediately drawn to the yellow rubber duck. Her hands grasp at the air in the direction of this toy, as if the duck will magically jump up from the blanket and fly into her hands. Once she has it in her grasp she proceeds to bring it to her mouth and devour it, over and over and over again.

Yesterday, I put Penelope down in her crib for an afternoon snooze. Just when I was congratulating myself on how quickly and quietly she had fallen asleep, I heard thumping sounds coming from her room. When I peeked in, this was the scene I beheld…

Penelope sideways in her crib staring at the curtains and absentmindedly thumping the crib bars with her foot.

I think the curtains that cover our two sets of floor-to-ceiling windows are hideous, but they apparently have found a special spot in Penelope’s heart.

A few minutes later, she was sound asleep. Dreaming about the colorful curtains swaying in the breeze, no doubt.

10 Things I've Learned

Although I've only been in Germany a few weeks, I have already learned, mostly through trial and error, several important things.

1. A stroller does not work well on steep cobblestone streets.
2. German has many English cognates, but "fahrt" is not one of them.
3. 85 degrees feels like 100 degrees when air conditioning, fans or ice does not exist (and this is from someone who has spent many a summer in Houston, Texas).
4. It is possible to live without cell phones, a t.v. or internet in your home, but it is not advisable.
5. Germans don't like to drink anything cold (for example, a "milkshake" is served at room temperature and doesn't involve ice cream).
6. Germans really like apples and anything that can be made into a sausage.
7. Restaurants don't have "free refills."
8. Fannypacks are still in fashion here.
9. There aren't different ways of doing things, there is only the "right" way and the "wrong" way.
10. You can't learn German through osmosis.


And, since it's been a few days, here's a random picture of the little one, who has also taught me many important things:

A Nazi Encounter

One evening we decided to enjoy a leisurely dinner at an outdoor café in the Marktplatz. This large square is usually buzzing with people enjoying a drink at the various cafes, shopping at the nearby stores, or just hanging around the steps of the fountain. On this particular evening there was a group of people by the fountain that stood out amongst the crowd: dark grungy clothes, skin covered with tattoos, head partially shaven or in dreadlocks. You know the type...

Here is the view from our table. The people I'm referring to are on the left side of the picure.

As time went by this group got larger and larger, but they were pretty quiet and kept to themselves. Then a couple of them unfurled a large banner. We got a quick glimpse of the word “NAZI” written in bold letters followed by another word in German that we didn’t recognize. This got us a bit worried as to what this gathering was all about. That was also when we began to spot police cars parked next to the various exits to the square. Then we were more nervous.

Here are the policemen that were a few feet from our table.

A few minutes later a car pulled up next to us, and two men unloaded some speakers and hooked up a microphone. The group of people by the fountain started migrating over towards the people with the speakers. Now we were right next to the action. That got me even more anxious about what was going to happen. A man stood up with the microphone and starting talking in German. Every so often he would raise his voice and the people in the crowd would answer back. Unfortunately we couldn’t understand a word.

Here is the crowd of people listening to and chiming in with the person speaking into the microphone. You can't see the person talking, but his speaker is in the far left of the picture.

When things started picking up we decided to quickly pay our bill and hightail it out of there. As we were leaving, the Father stopped a young-looking police officer by one of the exits and asked what this was about. “They’re protesting the Nazi’s. We’re just here in case the Nazi group shows up and things get out of hand.” Ohhhh…I guess it helps to know German in these circumstances. The banner actually read “NAZIS FLEE!” Still, an interesting cultural experience.

Frankfurt on my Mind

On Saturday the three of us made a tramp to Frankfurt am Main (pronounced “mine”) and attended Frankfurt’s famous Museumsuferfest. Frankfurt is, for the most part, a modern city with imposing skyscrapers, trendy shopping, and a steady flow of international visitors. Frankfurt is also in many ways the central nervous system of Germany: it is the home of Germany’s financial sector (the European Central Bank is here, and Frankfurt’s stock exchange is the world’s 4th largest), and its airport is the point of arrival and departure for most visitors to Germany.

Fortunately for us, Frankfurt is only about an hour trip by train or auto from Marburg. We chose the later option this time and headed south by bus with a group of other Fulbrighters.

A proper visit to Frankfurt begins where Frankfurt began, in Römerberg (or the old central squaure) of the Altstadt (old city), on the northern shore of the river Main. Römerberg remains the political and social center of Frankfurt. Many emperors have been elected here, but in today’s Germany it is the site for events like the famed Christmas market. On our visit we even witnessed a few weddings taking place.

The city of Frankfurt was mostly leveled during WWII, so the majority of the Römerberg square is composed of reconstructed half-timbered houses. Dominating the center of the square, however, is the 16th century Gerechtigkeitsbrunnen (or Fountain of Justice).



Here’s Penelope, bundled up outside of the old Rathaus (or city hall).


One of Frankfurt’s most well known attractions is Paulskirche (or St. Paul’s Church).

The Church was originally constructed (in Neoclassical style) to serve as the city’s principal Protestant church. It is now famous, however, as the gathering place in 1848 of Germany’s first democratically elected assembly. Given the church’s namesake (St. Paul!), we were excited to make our visit. Things quickly became depressing. The Paulskirche, despite the name, is no longer a church (no pastor, no congregation, no gatherings of worship) but rather a hollowed out secular monument.

All Christian symbols have been purged. In their place, the vacant space has become memorial to the idea of German political unity. This unity is expressed by the flags of the 16 Bundesländer (or states) that wrap around the walls of the interior.

Paulskirche is a tragic reminder (especially for American churches) of why Christians refuse to adorn their sanctuaries with national flags and to pervert their liturgies with secular celebrations like the 4th of July, Memorial Day, et al. For those churches unfaithful in this matter, see St. Paul’s “Church.” MENE, MENE, TEKEL, and PARSIN!

After Paulskirche, we ascended the Maintower and took in the spectacular views of Frankfurt.

We held on tight and tried not to get blown away by the cold wind.

Then we proceded down to the Museumsuferfest along the banks of the River Main. There are 20 museums that line the shore of the river, and this festival celebrates them. Though we didn’t venture into any of the museums, we did wander along the river and take in the sights and smells of the festival outside.

The streets were lined with stalls featuring crafts and foods, both local and international.

There was no shortage of beautiful meats.


Apfelwein (literally “apple wine”), the drink of Frankfurt, was also readily available. It tastes similar to apple cider, but it’s more sour than sweet. The stalls selling Apfelwine were charming and sometimes extravagant.

We were amazed at how civil and refined this festival was compared to those we’ve experienced in the U.S.: the drinks were served in real glasses, there wasn’t trash strewn about, the music was pleasant, the tables were decorated with candles and flowers, and people were dressed nicely. The weather also hovered between a bit cool and just perfect, which was quite unlike summer festivals in the States.

We both got our fill of apfelwein, which ended up being a bit more potent than either of us anticipated.

Penelope even wanted to give it a try.

Apfelwein, of course, wasn’t the only drink at the festival. Being in Germany, there was plenty of beer, and also all kinds of cocktail concoctions.

Near the end of the evening, as we headed back to catch our bus, Penelope spotted the city park. She insisted that she be allowed to play just like the other big kids.

Just before heading back to Marburg we made one final stop at the bakery to get some last minute refreshments for the journey home. We are quickly becoming rather efficient European travelers.

In the Footsteps of the Grimm Bro's

The town of Marburg is known for its connection to Jacob and Wilhelm Grimm who attended the University in the very early 1800’s. While they were here they collected and recorded the local fairy tales. In honor of these fine fellows Marburg mounted symbols from several of these tales in different parts of the city and provided a map to help you locate them. They market it as a fun exercise program, and by the time we were finished (or given up is more like it) we understood why…

Here we are: me, Sam (the navigator with the map and a German dictionary), Jamie (Sam’s wife), Evey, and the father (taking the picture). The dark red timber-frame house directly behind Sam is where the Grimm brothers lived while studying in Marburg.

The Frog Prince (you know, the one where the girl has to kiss the frog in order to turn him back into a prince)

The Porcupine and the Hare (I have no idea about this one except that it has something to do with a hare chasing a porcupine, or maybe it is the other way around???)

A donkey with gold coins coming out of its butt (I don’t know either…)

Something about somebody killing 7 flies with one swat. You can see the metal and glass flies on the side of the building. (Don’t know this story either—I guess my parents didn’t read me very many fairy tales as a child.)

The Billy Goats Gruff (I always thought there was a troll involved, but it looks more like a bear here.)

Some quote from the Grimm brothers with the castle in the background (Being the only non-German speaker in the group I couldn’t read it, but it has something to do with complaining about how many steps exist in Marburg and that it’s a pain getting around. As the story goes, that is why the Grimm's left Marburg.)

The Seven Dwarves (you can see the tips of their hats poking out above the castle walls, but no sighting of Snow White)



Here’s where we ran into problems. Supposedly there is some symbol from Hansel and Gretel as well as the golden shoe from Cinderella in this courtyard by the church. We looked and looked but couldn’t find a thing. Finally, I decided that this little house was good enough for the Hansel and Gretel story (you know, the gingerbread house where the witch lives), but we never found the shoe. I have gone back twice since then looking for the ridiculous shoe, but still no luck. Some guy we ran into said he found it, but I believe he is lying.

Welcome to Gummy Bear Heaven!

Germany is home to the Gummy Bear, and I located an amazing shop in Marburg that has dedicated itself to the delicacy. There are gummy bears in every flavor imaginable and tons of gummy bear creations--Gummy bear liquor and tea, a birthday cake made of Gummy bears, shish-ka-bobs made of Gummy bears, and even a Gummy Bear pizza. My personal favorite is the super sour toungue-shaped gummy bear. It's tickle-your-taste-buds delicious!

The Gummy Bear store

Gummy Bear Pizza (but who puts eggs on a pizza??)

Penelope sort of resembles a gummy bear

By the time I leave Marburg I will be a gummy bear connaisseur!

Gummy Bears reign supreme here in Marburg. Here, at the Marburger Hof Hotel, they leave "sleepy sheep" gummy bears on your pillow instead of mints. I've also seen gummy bear cookies at the local bakeries. Mmmmmmm!

Friendly Advice

Yesterday I had an interesting encounter with a woman on the street. I was strolling the little one in the center of town while she peacefully napped. It was overcast, and it happened to be sprinkling when she fell asleep, so I had my handy-dandy plastic rain cover over her stroller to protect her from getting wet. I love this thing! It fits perfectly over the top part of the stroller and has mesh fabric on the sides so that air can get in. It's a great invention, and I never leave home without it when rain is in the forecast.

So, as I'm walking down the street a lady stops me and starts motioning to the stroller and speaking to me in German. I react with my set phrase that I'm now accustomed to saying, "I'm sorry but I don't speak German." The woman then continues in English and says emphatically, "You need to take that off. Your baby needs fresh air!" I pause for a minute because I'm not quite sure how to respond. Who does this lady think she is telling me what to do with my child? And why does she even care if Penelope has enough fresh air or not?

I respond by first trying to point out the air vents on the side and explain that she fell asleep when it was raining and I didn't want to disturb her. But the woman is still very concerned and again tells me to take off the rain cover since it's not raining anymore. So I give in (because it suddenly dawns on me that I may be committing a cultural faux-pas and I'm afraid of the consequences), and tell her thank you and keep walking.

When I get home I consult with the father (my German culture go-to for the moment) and seek an explanation for what happened with the lady on the street. He laughs at my ignorance, tells me to get used to it, and explains that Germans feel that it is their duty to let others know how to do things--the 'correct' way of doing things.

The next day I'm once again walking in the city strolling Penelope. She is taking her morning snooze in the stroller. To keep the sun out of her eyes I have her blanket draped over the stroller. And that is when I pass the same advice-giving lady.

We smile at each other and keep walking.

Hooray for Visitors!

Our first visitors--Aunt J and Uncle M!

We had a great time hanging out and showing them the town of Marburg. They were lucky enough to stay at the Marburg Hof hotel instead of crammed into our dormitory suite. Upon viewing their hotel room, I decided I would be content just spending the entire day there--t.v., internet, phone, minibar, trouser press...what else do you need?! After they pulled me away, we spent the couple days they were here seeing the sights of the city. Here are a few highlights...

In search of the perfect view. (Yes, all visitors to Marburg are required to make the trek up to the top of the city.)

Uncle M sips an espresso in the Marktplatz...

...while Aunt J teaches Penelope how to hold (eat) the camera.

Uncle M carried the little one (who felt not so little) all the way to the top...

...where she preformed a victory dance for us.

Penelope loves her aunt and uncle and can't wait to see them again at Christmas!