Fasnacht Day Parade

To continue the previous post, here are my favorite pictures from this past Tuesday's Fasnacht Day Parade. I know it seems like a ton of pictures, but the Father took a whopping 355 photos, and I thought I was doing well at narrowing it down to less than 30!

I don't know about you, but I have attended many a parade in my life, and all those parades were somewhere in the U.S. This parade, however, felt much different than any parade I've seen before. There were so many things in it that made it uniquely German and uniquely "Fasching."

The setting: Heidelberg Altstadt--beautiful historic buildings with the castle gardens in the background. (Definitely can't find that in the U.S.)

Penelope and I watching the parade (notice those blonde-wig-wearing male band members behind us)

Speaking of bands, every good parade has their share of marching bands. But the bands in this parade were a little different than the ones I'm used to. Not only did I not recognize any the of the songs they played, but they also had the strangest uniforms I've ever seen.

And just when you think this is a more typical marching band look, you spot the ginormous curly wigs.

This parade also had lots of huge flags. Most of them were flags from the local region.

There were also lots of 'floats." We couldn't figure out what group or organization they represented, but most of them were comprised of old guys with these funny hats and scarves.

Oh, and then there was the candy. Just like any good parade there was lots of lots of candy-throwing invovled. In fact, Penelope and I got pelted with the stuff on a few occasions. But some of the old men on the floats were terrible when it came to giving out candy. Just take a look at the scary guy on the left.

But this guy had the right idea. Just look at all that joy he's bringing to the world!

As soon as the candy was released, all the kids (and a fair number of adults) scrambled around on the ground to pick it up. Here's my favorite little guy, scavanging for any last remaining pieces.

But at this parade, it wasn't just candy being thrown out. This lady was handing out huge pretzels.

There was also a wagon giving out cups of hot soup, a float throwing out sprays of orchids wrapped in cellophane, and even a truck passing out cups of beer. Only in Germany, folks!

Not only was most of the music unfamiliar, but there were also several characters in the parade that seemed familiar to those around us, but utterly foreign to me. Like this group of "witches"...

and these creepy dudes...

There was one who I was very familiar with.

Yep, Obama came to the Heidelberg Fasnacht Day Parade!

There was a group dressed up like the different ingredients in a Doener (see my post from October if you don't know what I'm talking about). This lady was particularly good in her role as the onion.

And you've gotta love the cross-dressing angels.

This parade was also a bit more interactive with the crowds then I've seen before. For example, here, the angels decided to grab someone from the crowd and swing her around for a bit.

When the parade was over everyone swarmed onto the streets and mass chaos broke out.

And that was how we celebrated our first Fasching.

Fasching

Sorry that it's been a few days since I last posted, but, you see, I've only just recovered from whatever it was that happened on Tuesday.

Tuesday was 'Fasching,' or 'Faschnacht,' which literally translates, 'Fasting' or 'Fasting Night.' Now, I think that the Germans are a bit confused as to what 'fasting' means, because let me just tell you, there was nothing like fasting going on that day. Rather, it was a day of partying, debauchery, and straight up craziness. I think that this is why a lot of people just refer to this day as 'Karnival,' because that is what it is. Basically, it is the German version of Mardi Gras.

We knew something was up when, a few weeks ago, the displays in the big department store's windows went from fashionable winter attire to clown, lion and bumblebee costumes. About this same time we started noticing posters plastered around town advertising huge Faschnacht parties. Then, last weekend, stalls selling candy and bratwurst starting popping up in Universitaetplatz and along the Hauptstrasse. And to top it off, people thought it was cool to wear costumes while walking around town. Yes, something was definitely up.






On Tuesday, we got word that there was a big Fasching parade through town later that afternoon. A few hours before the parade was to begin, businesses started closing down for the day and cafes removed their tables and chairs from the street. Then, all the crazy people really started coming out of the woodwork.





You see, since Germany doesn't really celebrate Halloween, this is the only time people can get the costume thing out of their system. But dressing up in costumes isn't just for the kids. The adults really get into it too. And, thankfully, women in slutty costumes were not the norm.

why, hello, whimsical medieval couple


and the cutest lion ever!


these kids have their priorities straight: candy and warmth over displaying cool costumes


We found a great spot along the Hauptstrasse and waited for the action to begin.

And we waited. And we waited.




And when we couldn't feel our toes anymore, we went into a cafe and waited some more.

Then, at last, we heard the noises of a band in the distance. We joined the rest of the crowd outside and braced ourselves for the parade.

We were very curious as to what was involved in a German parade, especially a Karnival parade. And, as you will see in my next post, we were pleasantly surprised.

The Big Ten

Guess who made it into double digits?! Yep, Penelope hit the big 1-0 mark today. That's ten whole months of Penelope to celebrate!

Here's a peek into the new developments in Penelope's world...

--Books rock!--

Penelope can't get enough of these things. She finally realized that books aren't just for gnawing on, and lately her favorite thing to do is to spend some quality one-on-one time with her friends on the pages of her books.

And Penelope loves sitting on your lap and listening to you read, especially if she gets to turn the pages.

Reading books is just about the only way to get Penelope to sit still these days. She's busy, busy, busy exploring everything around her. So when we can snag a moment like this, we are delighted!

Awwwwww...

--Going backwards has its advantages!--

Penelope recently taught herself to crawl backwards in order to get off the bed and couch. (That's what one too many head-first crashes onto the floor will do to you.) Here's a play-by-play of Penelope's technique:

1. Turn around, put your head down, and crawl backwards until you reach the edge of the bed.

2.When your leg starts dangling, you know you've hit your target. Give a little push and start bracing yourself for the drop.

3. Breathe a sigh of relief when your feet finally hit solid ground.

And that's how it's done, folks!

--Make sure you're always keeping your parents on their toes!--

Penelope has been climbing over, under, through, and around everything she can in order to reach and snatch new things. And just to ensure that we're paying attention, she has become rather creative in her climbing pursuits. For example, she recently discovered that turning her toy bowl over and climbing on top of it allows her to reach several no-no's located on the high shelf.

--Look Ma! No hands!--

Penelope has been standing more and more on her own lately. Most of the time she seems to be unaware of what she is doing.

We're convinced that she can stand on her own much more frequently and for much longer than she does, but she just lacks motivation. I mean, why attempt something that might lead to falling when you can just crawl wherever you want to go?

I've been bringing her to the Kid's Club (a really nice playroom below where we live) hoping that seeing how the big kids walk will convince Penelope that it is way more cool to walk than crawl.

Apparently I've still got some more convincing to do.

My Little Cantelope

Every day I plop Penelope in the stroller, and we go somewhere around the town together. It never fails that we have an impromptu encounter (or two, or three) with perfect strangers that come up to Penelope and strike up a conversation. Whether it be at the bakery, grocery store, bus or in the park, and whether it be with an elderly gentleman, store keeper, or young mom, the conversation usually goes like this:

German Stranger: blah, blah, blah (some form of 'baby talk' in German of which I only understand a few words)

Me: smile and nod and act like I understand

German Stranger: Ist sie eine Maedchen? (Is she a girl? --which by now I understand because of how many times I've heard this same annoying question. Come on people! She always has her bright pink coat, hat, and mittens on and is wrapped in her pink blanket. Do people really think I would dress my son like that?!!!)

Me: more nodding and smiling

German Stranger: blah, blah schwarz Augen! (basically, "She has such black eyes!")

If you look around, just about every German baby has light blue eyes and light hair. Penelope basically has no hair, but she does have very oddly colored eyes for Germany. And every single person I enter into a conversation with remarks how black her eyes are. Every. Single. Person. I'm never quite sure if they're implying that my child is weird because she has such dark eyes, or that they think it's cool and unique. But, for the record, I am so tired of people bringing up her eye color. Yes, Penelope has dark eyes. The end.

German Stranger: Wie heisst sie? (What's her name?)

Me: Penelope (I pronounce it "puh-NEL-luh-pee")

German Stranger: quizzical look

Me: Penelope (puh-NEL-luh-pee)

German Stranger: Ah! Pen-uh-LOPE-uh

Great. Not only does my child have strange eyes, but the Germans think my daughter's name rhymes with cantelope.

Straight from the Runway

Introducing Penelope, Top Model in training...

Today Penelope is modeling a hand-knitted sweater made especially for her by our dear friend Elizabeth.

It is made from a special organic bamboo blend, and it feels like silk between your fingers. None of that scratchy wool stuff for little P.

And just look at all that beatiful detailing down the back and along the shoulder. Gorgeous!

That's right, Penelope. Smile with your eyes. Isn't she a natural?


Thank you Elizabeth for the beautiful sweater! We love it!

Civic Sundays

Sundays in Germany feel completely different than Sundays in the U.S.

All grocery stores are closed. All retail stores are closed. Some cafes, restaurants and bakeries are open, but with limited hours. The streets in the main part of the city are quiet, except for the clanging church bells that echo in the air. On Sundays the pace of life slows down.

Although the Hauptstrasse feels empty, across the river, the park and promenade along the riverbank is crawling with people. There are children playing on the playground. Couples young and old strolling down the path. A group of guys playing soccer. People relaxing on park benches. It is as if a German's civic duty on Sundays is to put all of their energy towards relaxing and having a good time with their family.

It took me awhile to get used to getting all my grocery shopping done before the weekend, but now I barely give it a second thought. And really, is it that big of a deal not to be able to go shopping one day out of the week? I'd much rather spend my Sunday afternoon relaxing at home or taking a long walk anyways.

Here are a few snapshots of our Sunday last week. We walked down the Neckar River and up to the Philosopher's Way. There was still an awful lot of snow on the ground, and between sledding, snowmen building, walking, and playing soccer in the snow, the townspeople were doing their best to make the most of it.

Six Month Review

We've now been in Germany for half a year. Two months in Marburg, and now four months in Heidelberg. And what a great six months they have been!

Before coming here I was looking forward to a year of adventures in the German landscape, language, and people. I wanted to dive into the German culture headfirst and hoped to emerge invigorated.

During the past several months I think we have strived our best to do just that. We have toured and tramped around the area, taking in the rich history, the diverse architecture and the quaint countryside. In spite of no formal language training, I have surprised myself at the amount of German words and phrases I have picked up--of course, I still find myself in awkward situations on a daily basis on account of my German limitations, but I've learned to take it all in stride. We have found small ways to get connected into the community here--our church, the students in the Father's department of study, other people at the University Guesthouse, other Americans transplated here. In many ways, it is surprising how comfortable and at home we have come to feel in this place.

When people ask how we like living here, the first thing that immediately comes to our minds is how friendly and welcoming we have found the people to be. It could just be my little sidekick Penelope--I mean, who can resist that sweet face?--but other Americans we've met over here have said the same thing. People here seem to be more thoughtful and considerate than in the States. In part, these are simply social conventions. Like if an elderly lady gets on the bus and you are not old, you stand up and offer her your seat. Everyone understands this, and they actually do it.

I have already started to think about the things that I am going to miss once we move back to the States. The first thing I think of is the ability to walk everywhere I need to go. Now the thirty minute walk to the grocery store doesn't even seem like a big deal (unless it's raining or freezing of course). I love walking along the streets past the old buildings, or in the park along the river, or down the bustling Hauptstrasse. I love being in the fresh air, getting some exercise, watching all the sights of the city as I pass by.

The other thing I will miss is the time I get to spend with Penelope. At first, the transition from working full-time to not working at all was difficult. My mind was constantly on my former students and co-workers, and I felt so unproductive and useless. Now I have come to appreciate this different rhythm of life and realize that I should be cherishing every moment I have home with my daughter. I enjoy all the little interactions we get to have together and being by her side to witness every milestone. I will be ready to go back to work when the time comes, but for now I am content.

Here are some other things we have come to love about Germany:

-plenty of green spaces that everyone in the community actually uses

-widely availble and efficient publice transportation

-cheap wine and huge beers (we rarely have to spend more than 3 euros for a bottle of wine)

-all the random festivals and celebrations in the cities

-fascinating history wherever you go

But of course we miss our friends and family back home (and countless other American comforts).

Snow Angel

"Hey mom!"

"What Penelope?"

"What's this stuff I'm sitting on?"

"It's called snow, Penelope. Give it a try. You might like it."



"Hey mom, this stuff isn't so bad."

"See, I thought you'd like it."

"But wait, mom! My hands! They disappeared."



"Don't worry, Penelope. They're just hidden under the snow."



"Look mom! I can go fast!"



"Mom, this snow's got nothin' on me!"



"Watch out, Penelope!"

"Don't worry, mom. I'm okay."



"Look mom! I made a snow angel."



"Oh, Penelope, you are my little angel."

In the Bleak Midwinter

In the bleak midwinter

Frosty wind made moan,

Earth stood hard as iron,

Water like a stone;

Snow had fallen, snow on snow,

Snow on snow,

In the bleak midwinter,

Long ago.

Christina Rossetti had that right. Except for the "long ago" part. Bleakness is my current reality. Every day for practically the past two weeks it has been snowing. And bleak. Ugly, gray, cold skies. Bleak. Bleak. BLECH!

the view outside our balcony

Oh SUN, why have you forsaken me?!