And We're Off...

We left yesterday morning for our big two-week trip East:


Nuremberg, Berlin, Dresden, Prague, Munich, and then back to Heidelberg


We packed all we could in one suitcase, loaded up the pack-n-play and set off for the train station early in the morning. Penelope was clearly excited for the adventure, but I was a bit apprehensive of how we would fare with a toddler in tow.





For our first leg, we took the train to Nuremberg. Trying to be a little thirfty, we took the slow regional trains, which made for a long 4 1/2 hour ride. However, traveling by trains with a toddler is definitely the way to go. Not only were the views of the countryside from the giant windows gorgeous, but Penelope having the freedom to walk around the car, stand up in the seats and look out the windows, and make friends with our fellow passangers was a huge help. As you can see, she was eager to wave to everyone, and she was more than happy to share her food with anyone who acknowledged her.




Once we arrived in Nuremberg we headed straight for the Nazi Documentation Center. Nurembrg was the ideological center of Nazism. They famously claimed for themselves the title "the most German city in Germany." This region of the country has always been , and still is today, the most conservative part of Germany. And since Fascism is Conservatism gone extreme, this is where the Nazi movement took root. Before it was known for the War Trials, Nuremberg was the propaganda center of Hitler's political theater. In fact, many of the famous images of Nazi rallies are from the complex we visited today in Nuremberg.

Below is a picture of Hitler speaking at a Nazi rally in Zeppelin Field in Nuremberg.



Here is a picture of a picture of the platform where Hitler gave this speech. It was modeled after the Pergamon altar, a famous cultic altar from Ancient Greece.





Here I am standing in the same place Hitler stood in Zeppelin Field.






The Father giving his speech to the group of skaters below.

And a side-view of what it looks like today.

As you can see, part of the top is missing, but the center part has been restored. The city has chosen to preserve this part of its past and reclaim it as a recreational facility. The area below is reserved for skateboarders and skaters, but there are also walking paths, parks, and cafes.

I have to admit that being in this place were Nazism was so strong felt a bit eerie. Even the Father, who is known for his theatrics, could not bring himself to make inappropriate gestures while standing on the podium.

Next, we took a quick tour of the Nuremberg Altstadt (old town). There were several beautiful churches that stood out. St. Lawrence's Church was probably our favorite.

Here is the more famous Frauenkirche, or Church of Our Lady. At noon every day the clock preforms a pageant as the tiny figures rotate around.

Across the Hauptmarkt square is the ornate Schoener Brunnen (Beautiful Fountain). This pipe fountain dates back to the 1300's. On it is the so-called "wishing ring." This ring was supposedly added by an apprentice without the knowledge of the main designer. It is believed your wish will come true when you turn it. So Penelope and I gave it a good turn.



Nuremberg, like most German towns, has a river running through it and exudes quaintness.

Penelope has grown accustomed to quaintness.

Next we walked up to the castle. The large fortress on the highestpoint of the city dates back to 1050 when Emperor Heinrich III built fortifications to secure his land. It provided a great place to take in the views of the city.

The city at dusk.

We ended our evening with a drink at a biergarten under the castle.

Penelope picked up the bill.

Burn, Baby, Burn

Hey!


What do you get when you cross pretzels with streamers on a stick?



Answer: The makings of the Sommertagszug, a.k.a. Summer Day Parade.



Halfway through the Lenten season, the entire town of Weinheim comes together to declare that winter is over and summer is here. Since we have had our fair share of winter weather here in Heidelberg, we were only too happy to participate with the happy villagers of Weinheim in ushering in the summer.

Here we are in the Marktplatz a few hours before the celebration.

Notice the peaceful, empty Marktplatz.

And the quiet streets of Weinheim lined with historic buildings.

Ahh, peaceful Weinheim. Kind of makes you want to commune with nature. Like this lovely cedar tree, the biggest in Germany.

But then, ever so gradually, the town of Weinheim came to life. Crowds started gathering the in town center, the beat of the drums echoed through the streets, and suddenly it seemed like everyone was waving sticks with streamers and pretzels.

The parade had begun.

Then the three main players arrived: the evergreen, the brown stick tree, and Mr. Snowman.

Now, the first two characters escaped rather unscathed.

But Mr. Snowman's fate was already sealed. He was marched down into the center of the Marktplatz to awate his fate.

But first, the children of the town had their role to play. Each one was dressed up in a springtime costume and carrying the streamer sticks.

Some pretzels even had a hard boiled egg stuck in the middle. As you can see, some parade participants got a bit hungry during the march to the Marktplatz and decided to have a nibble or two on their pretzel.

The band played some traditional little diddies. One of the crowd's favorites went something like this (in German): "Strih, strah, stroh, the summer days are here!

There were a few floats in the parade too. Like this one that says, "The winter was rather so hard, now the spring appears ready to start!"

These were my favorite. Nothing says spring like these flower babies.

The kids in their costumes kept coming and coming.

Pretty soon the Marktplatz was filled. Everyone was waiting with eager anticipation to see the fate of the snowman.

Then, the climax of the parade: Mr. Snowman was set ablaze.

Poor guy!

So long winter! Hello summer!

Wiesbaden

After a tour around Mainz (see previous post), Sam and Jamie took us across the Rhine River to the beautiful town of Weisbaden.

First, a bit of history. Wiesbaden has been a popular spot since Roman times due to its hot springs. Kaiser Wilhelm II made it into a fashionable place after German unification in 1871, when most of its grandiose architecture was constructed. It fared well in the world wars, and it became the European headquarters of the US Air Force after WWII. In fact, the Berlin airlift was coordinated from Wiesbaden. It is also the center of the Sekt (German champagne) industry.

Sam, Jamie, the Father and Penelope in the park by the central pond Warmer Damm


the Hessisches Staatstheater next to the park

in front of the Kurhaus (casino)--we weren't properly dressed so we weren't allowed inside

the Kochbrunnen (boiling fountain)

Jamie takes the opportunity to warm up her hands in the Kochbrunnen

family photo op with the red Marktkirche in the background

the Neo-Gothic Marktkirche--the city's main Lutheran church and a disctinctive landmark

close up you can see that it is mainly constructed from red bricks

And that, my friends, is a quick tour of Wiesbaden.